On December,19 three boats left Puerto la Cruz. We had 208 nm to go on the chart, but in the real life you have all the wind, waves and current straight against you. And pirates in some places. Different people were naming different places, and it was the most scary part.
So we left Puerto la Cruz. In couple of hours the wind and waves started to build. Waves low but very short. The boat goes great, but the waves ruin wooden pulpit. Old screw holding the “leg” lost its head. OK, fixed this with the ropes, continued to go. The boat speed against the Caribbean is 3 knots. In couple of hours (sic!) the bottle screw of the top shroud breaks! Ok, it was some 20 knots of wind against us motoring, but it is not enough to break unbreakable. Of course we immediately turn downwind and go back to Puerto la Cruz, trying not to wave the mast. Arrived in the night. In the marina engine stopped and didn’t want to start. Dropped the spare anchor (the main one was fixed with the ropes together with the pulpit). Waited for the guys with a dinghy. Moored. Wow.
Next two days we were repairing everything. Took off the pulpit, changed all the bottle screws, fixed the starter. And it was quite a challenge to find spares and technicians before the Christmas. But we made it. And went out again, this time alone.
Against the wind and the waves and the current again. If we had 2 knots of boat speed we were happy. Spent 22 hours to pass 57 miles. Exhausted at the sunrise anchored at the bay of Koche island to have some rest. Spent a day there and next morning tried to continue our way, but the engine didn’t start again. Fucking starter. Called the guys from Margarita island. They said that they could help, but tomorrow – today it’s Christmas. Ok, we celebrate with some pasta and rum-plus-anything cocktails.
Santa Clauses come next morning with a mechanic. He disassembles the starter. Phrase of the day: “do you have a number of the idiot who was repairing starter last time?” – “no, why?” – “he installed the brushes wrong way!” Everybody is crying, then drinking, then celebrating Christmas again.
So in the morning we leave Koche. There are three ways to go from here. First along the mainland till Trinidad and then North to Grenada. Here we have less wind, no current and less waves, but there is a chance to meet pirates. Second – via Los Testigos islands, against all this wind and waves and current up to 3 knots, but you can anchore there to have a rest. And – surprise! – a chance to meet the pirates 🙂 Third way – to go North motorsailing and then tack to Grenada, but it is twice long way and stronger wind, but less current and no pirates. We choose the first way. Vamos!
Daytime was quite ok. In the evening the engine rpms became unstable. Fuel filter! We asked the last mechanic to change it, but he said “no problem, it is almost new.” The labor is very cheap in Venezuela, but the quality is terrible. Ok, checking the anchorages on the way, in case we will need it. Deciding to stop in Trinidad.
Passed dangerous Carupano area in the night without navigation lights. Had short showers and squalls at every cape. In the morning passed Cabo Tres Puntas, they said the rest of the route is save. Clouds, rainbows and beautiful green mountainous coast we see. And here comes the boat.
Ordinary wooden fishing boat with strong outboard and several men with the long guns shooting in the air. Surprisingly we had no panic onboard, we just started to do everything we can to avoid boarding. First – turned to the open sea. Second – full power to the engine. Third – flare gun. When the pirates came closer, Marina shoot the gun. And flare rocket passed very close to their outboard! I think pirates were shocked more than us. I go down below and hide all the valuable stuff. Then go out and pretend talking on sat phone (which of course we didn’t have). At the meantime ask Marina to duck down just in case. I also tried to call anybody by vhf – no answer. I see the cloud with the squall almost on our way and tell Marina to go there – it will be easier for a big sailboat than for a small fishing boat to pass through this cloud. They understand our maneuver and try not to let us go to the cloud. Our only hope is that they will run out of fuel faster and that they are afraid to come closer because of the flare gun. And – it is a miracle – they turn back to the land! But at the very same moment we hear “beeeeeeep!” Engine overheated. Thanks god the wind is beamrich. We immediately set the genoa and switch off the engine.
Started to celebrate only being 10 miles from the land. Tried to start the engine and heard strange sound. Ok, no engine. And no main, because the halyard stuck at some place on the mast. Going with genoa. Reefed it a little to make it more flat and to be more comfortable in the squalls. The wind backs, and we are going the wrong direction again. Ok, will go with the long tacks, we are not in a hurry anymore. Tried to tack near Los Testigos islands, and it was the first time in my life when I saw a boat going 5 knots that cannot tack. And cannot jybe. The current was about 3 knots! Tried everything for half an hour, good that you didn’t hear all the words I was saying! Ok, go more north where the current is not so strong.
Next day we are at the latitude of Grenada. Trying to tack again – at least to check tacking angle in this conditions. The current is definitely less strong, but more squally clouds and the waves are 3-4 meters instead of 1,5 m forecasted. Tack didn’t work out, the waves are pushing back. Jybe – hurray! -works. Angle is not perfect, but better than nothing. But there are more and more squalls coming, and we start to realize that going to Grenada could be even more tough. So Plan B – we can go to Curacao. Long, but downwind. But waves become bigger and helming almost running is not easy as well. Last decision – to go back to the nearest shelter – Margarita – while we still have beamrich for it.
In the night the weather became even worse. After couple of 30+ knots squalls Windex stopped working. But later we had stronger squalls. Had to bare away sometimes. But made it to Margarita in one piece. On the way called to Santa Clauses, they found a fisherman able to help us to anchor. How he later refused to meet us in the bay where it was no waves and went out to the windy channel (to make more money), how we were furling genoa and throwing the line to him in 3 meter waves – it is another not nice story. We anchor, anchor drags, we set it in another place and set the second anchor, Marina goes to the marina to talk about the place for us, second anchor drags, I chitchat with the couple on the boat we hug with our anchor line, Marina comes with the good news and the guys. Guys tow us to the marina (and hit the wreck with our keel), we moor and then everybody drink our last rum.
It was yesterday. Today the mechanic came, checked the engine, changed filters and added some oil – and engine sings again! Here Venezuela is different. You can go out in the night, everybody is helping, in supermarkets you they have food! We stay next to famous Bora Bora disco and have a lot of plans for the New Year’s night, including visiting it. Tomorrow will decorate Christmas tree and make some nice food. Will continue our way after New Year.
